Our Legacy’s affect on menswear is such that editors, talking in shorthand, describe some rising manufacturers as attempting to be the following OL. Primarily they’re speaking concerning the legacy of Our Legacy—legacy 2?—which incorporates an anti-fashion stance that embraces grunge, moto, and army influences and lends a way of timelessness to the items. There’s additionally a muted shade palette and, for the reason that introduction of girls’s, a two-way form of androgyny. Briefly, effortlessness (vogue’s holy grail) imbued with cool. A few of these components might be replicated however the energy of the “Our” within the model identify can’t be ignored. This impartial label was based by three tight-knit buddies, and, in his quiet and assured method, inventive director Cristopher Nying takes his personal experiences and abstracts them in such a method that they’re directly private and common.
This season the abstraction was bodily manifest within the lookbook during which fashions had been photographed behind glass, at a take away, with reflections generally including texture to the pictures. This may very well be learn as a metaphor for contemporary life in a digital age, the place content material is consumed by means of a glass display, however Nying had one thing completely different in thoughts.
The gathering’s place to begin was Greek fishing villages, and photographs of DIY cloth-wrapped motors taken there by Nying’s pal Hank Grüner. Seashore detritus, akin to grape vines, bottle caps, shell fragments, rope, and fishing lures had been upcycled or forged into jewellery. Fishing nets impressed a knotted tank, and the shapes of sails made their method into wrapped skirts. Technical gear for marine life was one other affect, most dramatically in a life vest-like gilet that swelled out right into a peplum.
Nying achieved a “moist look” in numerous intriguing methods. Ethereal crinkled sweaters had been fabricated from a mixture of silk and steel threads, and a cropped white nylon jacket was washed and shrunken to create a clinging impact. There was a requisite marinière stripe created by means of shadow-like transparencies on a suppose knit. The traditional sailor shirt with the flap collar was edited right into a loose-fit, high-buttoning blazer with a “falling collar.” Constructing on the Mediterranean theme, a couple of of the ladies’s appears adopted the curvy “bella figura” silhouette, however deconstructed the OL method. Ingeniously, a filmy, tied-at-the-waist skirt was is actually an oversize T-shirt and may very well be worn as one. Equally, essential gown coat may very well be worn inside-out.
Nying’s imaginary fishing village is, apparently, sun-scorched because the fashions had synthetic sun-burns. Their wet-looks may symbolize sweat as simply as ocean water; in reality, the glass instructed the previous. The intention, Nying stated, was to create the sensation of being “inside a bubble or inside a terminal. I wished to depart it a bit open; it may very well be that you simply come inside from a extremely popular, dreamy place, however I nonetheless wished it to really feel such as you missed the aircraft to this dream place and are standing in a terminal in an airport or one thing.” There was one thing dreamy about the entire state of affairs that verged on the surreal. This side of the spring lineup was captured in two shocking equipment. Referencing Donald Duck’s fishing misadventures the place the catch shouldn’t be a fish however an outdated shoe, there was a “collapsing guide” shoe that seemed like a Tom Rath-style enterprise shoe, that may very well be worn as a slip on. The gathering’s sunken treasure was a faceless silver watch. Breaking with Dalí, Nying’s timepiece wasn’t melting: as an alternative time was suspended and gratification delayed—at the least till this catch of a group lands in shops.
