Can’t cope with the Lisbon crowds anymore?
The jam-packed praças, narrow alleys where you’re practically standing shoulder-to-shoulder with fellow tourists, and those reheated pastéis de nata that taste industrial, yet are charged as if they’re freshly-made?
There are always exceptions to the rule, of course, but let’s not sit here and pretend that, undeniably stunning as Portugal’s leading city are, they’re well past their ‘new in the scene‘ excitement phase.
That being said, here’s a handful of smaller towns, tucked away in the (largely rural) Portuguese hinterland that have held on tight to their centuries-old traditions, and instead of matcha drinkers and IT expats in every café, it’s mostly locals sitting around tables chatting their afternoon away.
No mass tourism or TikTok-fied spots. These 4 Portuguese jewels are probably the closest you’ll get to the tourist experience in a then-uncrowded Lisbon 40 years ago:
Vila Real
Right by the Douro Valley, Portugal’s most prestigious wine region, Vila Real is a proper Baroque town that honors its regal name.
It’s home to Mateus Palace, a 16th-century ensemble comprised of a manor, a winery, and a richly decorated chapel. You can visit it for the opulent rooms and gardens, or as part of an organized wine sampling tour.
In the heart of the Historic Center, the Church of São Domingos is a Gothic marvel built in the 1400s, and all around it, there are beautiful cobblestone streets to discover. They don’t have big names on most maps, but this is a rather compact town, so my advice to you is just wander around.
I’m sure you’ll find hidden corners and that incredibly photogenic small plaza all on your own.
A 12 min taxi ride away, or if you don’t mind the scenic walk, a 36 min trek, Panoias Sanctuary is an Ancient Roman archaeological zone, with engraved basins carved into granite boulders. According to the available information, it was formerly a purification ritual site.
The best part? It costs only €2 ($2.36 to visit).
Silves
A fortified settlement down in the Algarve—some 12 miles inland from the actual coast—Silves is a virtually intact Moorish-era castle town that, for a brief moment, was even an official contender for the capital of Portugal.
You’re wondering why? The striking red-sandstone Moorish castle built here in the Middle Ages rivals Lisbon’s own in might:
Perched on the hill towering above the white-washed Old Town, it completely dominates the skyline, with thick stone walls, battlements, and watchtowers looping around the entire hilltop.
When I visited Silves, my favorite thing to do was walking along the walls. The views of the verdant Algarvian hills and their rolling vineyards, stretching as far as the eye can see, and all the farmhouses in the distance, are hard to beat.
Silves is also one of the best-preserved Moorish towns left in Europe.
If you’re unsure what that means, for roughly 8 centuries, large swathes of Portugal (and Spain) were in fact controlled by Muslim caliphates originating from modern-day Morocco. The red-tiled roofs, flowery patios, and plethora of fountains, ideal for religious ablutions, are pretty much living Moorish memory.
Last but not least, the cathedral is a must-see:
Formerly a mosque, it was converted into a church by the Christians following the ‘Reconquest’ in the 13th-century, and it masterfully blends Islamic architecture, with geometrical motifs and subtle arch shapes, Iberian Gothic, seen in the ribbed vaults and stained-glasswork, and even Baroque altarpieces and decoration.
Penedono
Some 130 miles northeast of Porto, Penedono is that one medieval gem Europe’s usual castle and storybook-town lovers haven’t discovered yet.
The standout monument here, as you might have guessed, is the fairytale-like Penedono Castle, distinguished by its Disney-like crenellated walls, irregular embattlements, and photogenic time-worn towers.
It rose from the ground at the peak of the Christian Reconquest of Portugal, and walking through its narrow, arched gateway, into the main courtyard, up the castle walls, you can almost hear the echoes of knights from long ago.
Like most Portuguese villages, this one has quite a number of charming buildings, though the stone-built Matriz Church might steal the limelight.
The altar’s painted wooden ceiling is a one-of-a-kind, and one of the most beautiful you’ll ever see.
Remember those Portuguese pastries we mentioned earlier?
Lisbon might be churning out versions that start to look a bit Tesco-esque each year, but Pastelaria Santa Eufémia in Penedono is still serving up crunchy-on-the-outside, creamy-on-the-inside custard tarts, with a perfectly relaxed sit-down vibe.
Évora
A regional capital with a small town soul, Évora is the cultural heart of Alentejo, and an ancient settlement dating back to Roman Times that still revolves around a UNESCO-protected Historic Center:
Standing proudly in the heart of the city’s main square, the Temple of Diana is Évora’s best-preserved Roman-era structure: built around 10–20 AD, with surviving columns of the Corinthian order, built in the slimmest, most highly-decorative form.
Only a few steps away, the local ‘Sé’, Cathedral, is an architectural landmark that blends Romanesque and Gothic styles. Other than visiting the beautiful medieval cloister and the cathedral’s own interior, make sure you climb up to the rooftop terrace for panoramic views of Évora.
The Old Town itself is an absolute marvel to wander: picture a cobbled maze lined with those typically Iberian chalk-white buildings, traditional boutiques, and family-owned eateries.
If you plan on gorging on those Alentejo classics, Fialho is the place to go: lamb stew, pork cheeks, migas, rich desserts, you name it. Do make sure you book ahead, though: it’s quite popular with locals themselves, and it can get fully-booked during the weekends.
