“I ended doing four-themes-a-year years in the past; that’s not sustainable. It’s one thought for 4 seasons for me, 4 chapters for one yr.” So stated Jason Wu on a walkthrough of his well-edited resort 2024 assortment. The designer’s fascination with the ocean, and with engraving-style prints, each of which appeared in his predominant line for spring, continued right here. Hidden inside a fig and flower motif was an octopus and pearl-bearing oysters. A bunch of those printed items have been over-embroidered with sequins, but completed with uncovered seams, which type of replicated the cross-hatch aesthetic of engravings whereas additionally retaining issues unexpectedly informal.
This type of excessive/low play suits in with Wu’s feeling for treating utilitarian materials as treasured and treasured ones as utilitarian. What he described as a “couture” tweed turned up on a subject coat. A superbly tailor-made hourglass jacket featured yellow top-stitching like denims usually do. Persevering with within the structured mode, Wu made a petal robe in homage to Charles James. “I’m actually infatuated with the Nineteen Fifties, I actually love form,” he stated.
Wu’s resort assortment combined components of that period, with that of one other, the sinuous Thirties. There was a slim saffron-colored tube that might rework its wearer right into a goddess, and slip attire with seaweed-like frills. These additionally appeared down the aspect of full-legged pants and the sides of the square-shaped high it was paired with. Trendy, elegant, and with freedom of motion, this ensemble was a gorgeous instance of the viability of night separates. You would possibly say it was within the swim.
