“What’s left after magnificence decays?” That was the fascinating immediate from designers Liushu “Shushu” Lei and Yutong “Tong Tong” Jiang, who’ve constructed an aesthetically concise and tightly packaged world at Shushu/Tong, a model is synonymous with a sure type of prettiness—prim, subtle, put collectively.
This season, they appeared wanting to problem these beliefs, and the train made for a compelling assortment that was satisfying and at occasions even shocking. After the present, Shushu mentioned that the duo had pushed themselves to discover totally different fabrications and supplies. Ten years in, the pair have a strong physique of labor—there’s no higher time to mess around.
Not coincidentally, this Shanghai Vogue Week was filled with milestone anniversaries. Labelhood, the retail-cum-incubator that has helped set up labels like Shushu/Tong, celebrated its twentieth season, and Samuel Guì Yang additionally marked a decade in enterprise. Town’s vogue trade continues to be younger, however a few of its defining abilities are formidable, and Shushu/Tong is one in every of its extra influential. Their friends usually choose up on their cues—somewhat flared gown, a painstakingly embellished blazer, the ability of a well-placed brand. So this season, Lei and Jiang turned their signatures the other way up.
What prior to now would have been peplums in wool crepe or suiting cloth grew to become layers and layers of sunshine cotton, dyed to look as if aged. Probably the most body-hugging silhouettes got here reduce in leather-based (a tailor-made cocktail gown, a paneled skirt), whereas lace clothes have been worn over contrasting underwear. Sheaths, reduce looser than standard, have been styled over colourful brassieres or on high of cropped knit sweaters. The entire thing was cooler and extra nuanced.
