“Dressing for me has all the time been an journey. It’s dressing for the day and the second, for a match on the tennis courts, for a glamorous night. My Purple Label assortment for spring 2025 is impressed by that sort of dwelling—celebrating a private model that’s easy and timeless, a quiet sophistication that’s assured and all the time genuine.” This was the quote delivered by way of launch from Madison Avenue to accompany this morning’s Ralph Lauren Purple Label presentation in Milan.
This assortment neither replicated nor repeated—nor even reinterpreted—core Lauren lore. Quite it felt like the most recent chapter in his unbroken cinematic serial devoted to alpha patrician menswear. This episode contained varied sections which tended to overlap. A collection of semi-formal maritime appears mixing blazers and a few breathtaking linen discipline jackets with Breton stripes blended right into a resort getaway cameo starring a navy terry blazer with white piping that marketed itself as a memento of Capri worn over white pants and espadrilles. Throughout from this a collection of extra clubby appears—clubby within the sense of leather-based chesterfields, slow-clicking grandfather clocks and nursery meals—noticed double breasted scarf collar blazers and extra discipline jackets worn over high-waisted razor precision creased pastel pants, night shirting and low-slung waistcoats. South of 1 linen herringbone discipline jacket was a navy sweater embroidered with an RL bear whose tied belt hung cutely unfastened and who wore an outsized watch and aviators.
There have been RL cricket sweaters worn alongside bridle leather-based tennis racquet holders and lovely billows-pocket suede shirting worn towards bridle leather-based grip baggage. A jacket in what seemed like a heathery Scottish wool that would go away your neck a burning scarlet from rubbing after an hour or two turned out to be lower in silk linen houndstooth examine that felt moisturizer-soft to the contact. There have been just a few diversions from chairman of the board to proprietor of the ranch that included a blue plaid shirt far more delicately proportioned than the heartier fare you’d discover at Lauren’s extra sturdy RRL outpost. A classic Aston Martin that seemed nearly as good as new—if not higher—was on show downstairs within the RL palazzo courtyard. Lauren and the engine of pros that encompass him appear consummately calibrated to find infinite variation in classically elegant menswear. Purple Label is ticking over superbly.
