Bertelli: Unlike much of the industry, in our group, the runway has always existed hand-in-hand with the factory. From day one, our approach has been that design and production are inseparable. When you talk to managers from other companies, factories can seem like a distant world, something abstract that doesn’t fall under their responsibility. That disconnect has contributed to many of the issues making headlines today. For us, it’s a matter of culture and heritage. From day one, my father believed in owning factories. My parents’ story embodies this approach: my mother, Miuccia, dedicated herself to design, while my father, Patrizio, focused on the factories.
This philosophy runs through our entire organization; it’s in our culture. In our Milan offices, business is never discussed without considering the factories, production processes, and their broader impact. Many companies simply don’t take this hands-on approach. Over the years, we’ve already confronted many of the challenges that are now creating problems elsewhere, not because we were inherently smarter, but because we tackled them early. At the time, some even questioned why we would take on such a labor-intensive, costly path when it would have been easier to outsource production and focus on higher margins. It’s an ongoing commitment. Regular inspections, supplier audits, and direct engagement with our factories are constant necessities. But in our experience, there’s no shortcut: understanding your production and being hands-on at every level is the only way to safeguard quality, ensure ethical practices, and maintain the integrity of the Made in Italy label. That’s been our approach from the very start.
Vogue: What does it take to safeguard ‘Made in Italy’ and let its story of excellence resonate with authenticity?
Andrea Guerra: We will remain incredibly strong when it comes to Made in Italy. Italy’s problem isn’t the “Made in”, nor our manufacturing, nor our ability to innovate. The real issue is selling our strong points, being able to tell a story, do marketing, engage consumers, and run stores all over the world. Italian companies have always been extraordinary at making things, but, unfortunately, not equally extraordinary at selling them.
