Marco De Vincenzo is making his mark on Etro, including his personal perspective to the label’s signature components. At a pre-fall showroom appointment, he sounded assured; after the spring present, “the path appears clearer,” he mentioned. The potion he’s concocting to carry Etro ahead is a component heritage, half private idiosyncrasies—a calibrated alchemy.
“If a model’s patrimony has sturdy foundations,” he reasoned, “as a inventive you progress inside a fringe that protects its survival, whereas on the identical time defending the integrity of your interpretation.” De Vincenzo delights in deep-dives into the archives; this season, he labored on the masculine templates of Etro’s beginnings in addition to on its romantic bohemian legacy—two apparently antithetical components laced by the aptitude for immersive ornament intrinsic to its character.
Etro’s concept of masculinity has at all times been unconventional, tinged with a debonair, dandy perspective. De Vincenzo picked upon the identical vibe within the female translation of the traditional masculine swimsuit, supplied right here in outsized renditions, both in tie-like heraldic jacquards or pinstriped, worn over sporty sweats with silk hoods printed in paisley motifs. Being one of many label’s signifiers, the boteh was given an immersive therapy in stretchy knitted tube clothes, paired with lengthy matching stoles; combined with florals, it prettified the fluid, unfussy silhouettes which can be De Vincenzo’s tackle the boho look. They seemed much less elaborate and flouncy than previous iterations. “I’m not going radically minimalistic,” De Vincenzo mentioned. “But what I’m making an attempt to do is to maintain the strategy a bit extra rigorous, to cut back quite than amplify. I wish to problem myself in staying genuine, each to the model and to myself.”
