Pearly Kings, strolling dwelling within the rain, a refrain of choirboys, and a heady dose of nostalgia combined with only a sprint of melancholy.
The soundtrack at Kunihiko Morinaga’s present for Anrealage Homme tonight was an evocative choral remodeling of The Blue Hearts’s circa-1990 hits “Aozora” (blue sky), and “Too A lot Ache.” The countless runway which ran alongside the perimeter of the Chichibu Rugby Floor had been lined in puddles of water that splashed evenly because the fashions made their approach round. As eventually season’s present, it was bathed in pink gentle. All the pieces Morinaga did that adopted was current and proper; this was a triumph of a finale for Tokyo Trend Week, the form of nourishing present that you simply spend all week hoping for.
Wealthy with element, there was loads to pore over. Colours have been daring: bubble gum pink, child blue, deep purple, and brilliant pink and orange, that nonetheless felt harmonious. And that’s to say nothing of the embroidery and embellishment that adorned half the items: lashings of pearls, beads, stitching and buttons that added dimension and texture.
An unrestrained and delightful sense for shade and embroidery is rising as a defining code of Morinaga’s menswear, alongside the chunky (and charmingly infantile) knits. This time the latter had integrated intarsia phrases together with “Good friend” (aww) and “Homme Alone” (lol). Most memorable was a pastel pink sweater that had “Made in Harajuku” on the again, with a knitted image of the style district’s iconic crossing and the phrase “House” beneath. It served as a scrapbook of recollections. “The primary driving power of the model is the nostalgia and sentimentality of recollections, and this assortment is a really gentle, contemporary, pop, and heat presentation of that,” Morinaga mentioned backstage after the present.
It stretched again throughout a panorama of classic menswear and trend references, from ’90s Man Fieri flame print (that was truly flame knit) on Bermuda shorts, colourful knitted patches that recalled American varsity jackets from the Nineteen Fifties (a carryover from final season), and the Westwood punk of the ’70s within the superglued spiky hair, whereas the mother-of-pearl buttons known as to thoughts the Pearly Kings and Queens of Victorian London. Loveliest of all have been the items that evoked the innocence of childhood: in addition to the aforementioned knits, there have been delicate appliqués of flowers on a coat sleeve, and the colourful cross-stitch and beads sewn throughout a white cotton pajama shirt and pants.
It’s uncommon we see the healthful aspect of boyishness spotlighted like this, and there’s a particular form of masculine vulnerability about Anrealage Homme that provides to its attraction and relevance. “I wished to return to childhood, a pure time when every thing seems sparkly,” mentioned Morinaga. “We would have been immature, however we noticed the world in a approach that simply surpasses what we take without any consideration at present.”
