Huishan Zhang absolutely immersed himself within the work of Wong Kar Wai as he designed his spring 2025 assortment. Particularly The Hand—a brief movie from the director’s anthology, Eros—which particulars the connection of a younger tailor and his consumer.
References had been each direct and refined. The obvious was the finale look: a royal blue costume embellished with crystals, an interpretation of 1 within the movie. Zhang broadly translated Wong’s cinematography with a brand new strategy of threading printed plastic with organza, seen on a coat and two clothes, which made for an attention-grabbing textural departure from his signature crystal and beaded elaborations (each additionally featured closely within the assortment).
Different materials explorations included intricate sequined patterns, forged onto a long-sleeve prime, a skirt, and a costume; angular salmon pink neoprene, to create a distinction for extra delicate components; and cotton-poplin adorned with crystal motifs. Tailoring has change into a giant a part of the enterprise, Zhang reveals—two Italian wool jackets with diamond necklines featured within the midsection—although clothes was the clear focus for spring. The cheongsam silhouette was Zhang’s “muse.” “I imagine there’s an invisible cheongsam for each lady on this planet; it protects them and empowers them,” he stated, so particulars like excessive necklines and capped sleeves had been morphed into new silhouettes.
“I wished to design a whole wardrobe for the girl, fairly than give attention to one space of her life,” he stated earlier than the present, held in a venue on Cavendish Sq. that reminded him of scenes from Wong’s work. Zhang achieved this resolve via his personal lens: His model of a traditional trench coat, full with beads, could be a daring outerwear alternative for daytime, and a cardigan–pencil-skirt mixture (beaded too) would take sporting one thing beneath to change into workplace applicable. However that’s precisely the designer’s intention: “We need to give them day and night time; day via to the night.”
