Ten years after making his runway debut, Leandro Cano returned to his origins. For his fall 2024 proposal, titled Menú, the designer went again to the identical moodboard he had made for his first assortment. “In Buffet, my first assortment, there was a bit little bit of every part,” he stated on the automobile park in Madrid’s metropolis heart the place the present was held. “For fall, I’ve been streamlining and distilling the designs—it nonetheless shares a few of the identical colours, shapes, and ideas as that first assortment, however now every part is extra mature and with a extra worldwide viewpoint.”
The Jaén-born designer likes historic figures to reinterpret them by his personal off-kilter lens; to wit, a toile de jouy print options the Spanish king Philip II and his spouse Mary Tudor, driving a bike and hanging out at a gasoline station, respectively. “I wished to interrupt up with the bucolic origins of the print and provides it a a lot more durable contact,” he defined. The print additionally includes a nod to his grandfather, who was a cab driver, and his Seat 1500. “In that automobile, I dreamt a thousand occasions about what I’d do for a dwelling sooner or later.”
Cano additionally returned to the acute volumes of his beginnings, updating them by a brand new form. “We’ve all the time made them spherical and natural, and this time we went for a geometrical high quality. They’re extra architectural,” he stated. He additionally took the chance to discover black, a shade he hadn’t used till now. “I’ve a fairly love-hate relationship with black, however now I really feel very snug carrying it,” he mirrored. Key materials included nappa leathers, wools, and jacquards. True to his method of conceiving style, Cano proposed methods equivalent to macramé or crochet, with a knitting sample he discovered on a pillow that belonged to his grandmother, forgotten for years in a drawer.
