Camille Miceli is taking Pucci on an Italian Grand Tour; first there was Capri and Florence—then a short escapade to St. Moritz’s über stylish slopes—and this season it was time for a Roman vacation. Was she beneath the spell of the Everlasting Metropolis’s fabulosity? “It was truly relatively private,” she mentioned at a preview. Her father was from Rome, and she or he visits usually; however largely, the selection was about “connecting the dots.”
Lately she got here throughout a Vogue Italia concern from the ‘90s that includes Isabella Rossellini on the quilt, shot by Steven Meisel and styled by Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele. Hinting at Sophia Loren’s charisma, Rossellini was lensed standing in opposition to a Pucci-printed backdrop, whose geometric swirls in aquatic blue and turquoise have been impressed by a tiny Mediterranean island close to Procida, off the coast of Naples, referred to as Vivara. The picture triggered a collection of assonances that led Miceli to name the gathering ‘Very Vivara’, and to indicate it in Rome. “Connecting Pucci’s aptitude for glamour, its most iconic print from 1965, the attract of Rome, the sensuality of Italian girls à la Sophia Loren: all of it type of got here full circle, virtually serendipitously,” she added.
A regal Rossellini, swathed in a dramatic Vivara-printed terry fabric cape, closed at present’s present. Held within the frescoed salons of Palazzo Altemps, a sixteenth Century aristocratic mansion, now one of many websites of the Nationwide Roman Museum, it was an atmospheric body for a contemporary, assured assortment. Whereas a radiant Christy Turlington opened the present in a chic black caftan, embroidered on the neckline with a sequined Bersaglio motif. Caftans and capes are quintessentially Pucci; not solely archetypes of haute model, they’re additionally body-and age-friendly shapes that Miceli embraces in her inclusivity ethos. Eva Herzigova and Devyn Garcia have been additionally a part of the present’s numerous casting. “The Pucci famiglia is about completely different girls, completely different spirits and characters,” she mentioned. In a season the place the business appeared to undergo from variety amnesia, kudos to Miceli for protecting the flame alive.
After having explored Pucci’s psychedelic aspect, the designer mentioned that it was time to introduce a extra risqué word, “protecting it actual however not boring.” The gathering had an city, subtle vibe; the opening seems have been largely black and glossy, with a toned-down exuberance signaled solely by sequined trimmings on little fits with cropped jackets, or on satiny coats with refined accents of the curvy Cigno motif. Asymmetrical twill scarf skirts and tunics in muted earth-toned patterns appeared engaging, with contrasting leather-based inserts for a tough, more durable edge; denim got here in new low-slung silhouettes, lasered with trompe l’oeil undulating curlicues. Progressing into extra vibrant all-over-printed renditions, tattoo ensembles in stretchy tulle had a contact of slinky, but appeared straightforward as T-shirts. “Once I was working for Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel,” reminisced Miceli, “he used to say that sporting Pucci was like sporting a full-on tatouage. So voilà!, we did the tatouage.”
