At Jil Sander, Luke and Lucie Meier stated they had been after “an enveloping feeling.” It’s not onerous to grasp why the designers are on the lookout for softness. Choose a disaster, any disaster. However requested for specifics, Lucie had a query of her personal: “Who doesn’t like consolation?” Certainly. That intuition led them to rounded silhouettes, double-face development, and padding within the type of down coats that evoked pool inflatables and outerwear separates modeled on quilted bedspreads.
Even the tailoring didn’t have any onerous edges. Although the template Jil Sander established so efficiently within the Nineteen Nineties was minimal and sharp, right here curves had been in all places: from the shoulders and sleeves of the swishy fits that opened the present in a blaze of crimson, celadon inexperienced, and chocolate brown—a welcome change of surroundings from all the grey and black elsewhere—to cape coats with infinity hems.
Wealthy textures had been one other working theme, chosen to boost a way of nestling and cocooning. They leaned an excessive amount of on the diamond quilting, and, let’s face it, there are limits to how far you may get out of the home within the furry sneakers that lots of the fashions wore. On the whole, the styling may’ve been taken down a notch or two. The over-ornamentation tended to distract from the calm, nurturing vibe the Meiers had been making an attempt to realize.
However the openwork crochet in bouclé wool and mohair that they used for tops and skirts appeared like a dream to put on, as did the knit items that may be reversed—on the other facet they appeared nearly like a shaggy shearling. “We like this blurring of the silhouette, a softening of the traces,” Lucie stated. The musical stylings had been supplied by Mk.gee, a 26-year-old from New Jersey with a debut album out this month, who was very a lot on their atmospheric wavelength.
