Editor’s observe: We proceed our custom of increasing the Vogue Runway archive by digitizing collections initially shot on movie, specializing in exhibits from the previous that talk to the preoccupations of as we speak. Right here, the autumn 1999 outing of the woman-led model Ghost, initially introduced in New York in October 1999.
Ladies have been the subject of a lot dialogue in vogue this yr—see Sarah Burton’s exit from Alexander McQueen and Phoebe Philo’s eponymous label launch, for starters. Again within the ’90s one of many names on vogue insiders’ lips was Tanya Sarne, who based the label Ghost with Katharine Hamnett in 1984. Although the 2 would half methods, the model saved on going, reaching its peak within the grunge period. In 1992 Ghost was invited to indicate at New York Style Week, and Sarne continued to current her collections within the metropolis for a few years, although the model was primarily based in London. The title Ghost is expounded to the concept the collections can be ghostwritten, in a manner, by designers working underneath Sarne’s route, and he or she usually took her bow alongside her assistant within the atelier. Style, in fact, is a collective exercise, even when the creative-director formulation requires a star system.
Ghost was identified for its simply flattering and easy-to-pack slipdresses in artificial supplies. Female detailing was one other signature. Embroidery, cutwork, and quilting have been all used within the label’s fall 1999 outing, which had a vyshyvanka-meets-Victoriana theme. As an alternative of slips, Sarne and the crew confirmed duvet-style quilts for an autumn assortment that was cozy and light-weight.
