The Viktor & Rolf model is 30 years outdated, and Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren’s uniquely surreal and (typically relatively unsettling) humorous tackle style has not diminished. Their ironic, chaotic spirit remains to be intact, and at this time’s couture present was pure V&R tongue-in-cheek conceptual leisure. As a substitute of turning their anniversary assortment right into a parade of gigantic, puffy clothes within the predictable type of unlikely Viktor & Rolf-esque birthday muffins, they went the opposite method. “We needed the get together to be in regards to the smallest merchandise of clothes there may be: the showering swimsuit,” they mentioned backstage.
Artists are as a rule obsessive, decided varieties, and Dutch designers aren’t any exception. Variations on a theme and repetition, that is what their repertoire is usually about. Right here, the dissecting and reassembling potential of the showering swimsuit, be it a coated bathing swimsuit or a skimpy bikini, was scrutinized with scrupulous consideration.
Stiff ruffles and rows of bows so excessive as to cowl the ears sprouted straight up from the plunging necklines of high-cut bodysuits, or spilled over from necklines that slink down the legs; three totally different sizes of bikinis had been positioned aspect by aspect in a form of “I see triple” tipsy impact. Catchphrases like NO or I WISH YOU WELL are derived from 3D cubic letter décolletés, an obvious substitute for sleeves.
However the present that put the icing on the birthday cake was decapitated mannequins who wore female black tuxedos, held on the fashions’ backs, or twirled round their our bodies in a number of formations as if determined for consideration and would not let go. The that means of all this? “It is open to creativeness,” the designers replied in unison. Clearly, the V&R repertoire doesn’t include the banality of logical, affordable explanations.
