Rihanna had been rumored to attend Vaquera tonight. So far as I might inform she didn’t flip up, however I did spy Julia Fox and Richie Shazam on the balcony. They have been handled to Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee’s greatest present in a while. Again within the previous days, the Vaquera designers selected a theme and ran with it. One season it was doubt and religion, one other identification crises. A yr earlier than the pandemic, they have been pondering—somewhat presciently—concerning the early-onset domesticity of their twenty-something mates. These days, although they’ve had industrial successes with their denim and jersey choices, their runway efforts have felt extra diffuse and obscure.
This time round, they have been steamed up: concerning the time crunch between seasons, a couple of lack of days off, about their not so spectacular financial institution accounts nearly a decade into their design careers. What actually ticked them off, they stated, is how a lot they discovered themselves caring about cash. There’s just one phrase for that: relatable!
“Style nowadays is dominated by the crudest type of forex,” DiCaprio stated. “We felt like previously, inventive advantage, a imaginative and prescient, and being punk was a bit extra of a strong forex.” And so, in a punk transfer, they developed an American forex print—not a straightforward factor to do on picture creation instruments, apparently—and graffiti’d Andrew Jackson’s eyes or painted over his face with hearts, and stamped the phrase FAKE over the White Home. After which they used it for an identical button-down and tie, the cummerbund on a loose-fitting pair of trousers, and the three-dimensional rosette bodice on a cocktail costume.
Toying with one other forex—intercourse—there have been cone bra tops and cone bra-printed t-shirts, titty tornado tees à la their icon Vivienne Westwood, and distressed leather-based chaps, one of many season’s shock traits. Claire Sullivan, with whom they operated Vaquera as a trio earlier than her departure throughout Covid, wore a shrunken polo shirt with bulls-eye breast insets.
DiCaprio and Taubensee aren’t naive sufficient to assume that style is a creative pursuit, however they aren’t cynical sufficient to imagine that it’s all about {dollars} and cents, both. They want a time off, however then once more, they wouldn’t change it. “I’m grateful for the place we’re,” DiCaprio stated. Preserve grinding, guys.