On the subject of pre-collections, Jun Takahashi will not be a person of many phrases. If his runways are emotional and overflowing with narratives that invite a myriad of interpretations, the lookbooks for his off-seasons include little or no explanations. These garments are much less experimental and extra grounded in every day life. The message appears to be: If the runways are supposed to make you daydream, the pre-collections provide what you’ll be sporting whereas doing so.
This time round although Takahashi did ship an e-mail: “We aimed to create every day put on that’s relaxed but incorporates Undercover’s signature methods all through.” When prompted concerning the similarities between this assortment and his knockout fall ready-to-wear present—with its flattened trompe l’oeil day-to-day uniforms and windswept layers—he added: “In latest seasons, a core idea has been to include Undercover’s distinct fashion into wearable designs. This was true for the earlier fall/winter assortment and continues into this pre-collection.”
Right here, Takahashi expanded that fall trompe l’oeil idea with t-shirts hemmed with the highest half of denims and jackets ending in pleated panels evocative of skirts, demystifying his runway story by making it less complicated and extra wearable with out eliminating its attraction. He additionally slashed and paneled the shoulders and sides of sweatshirts and midi skirts, respectively, to insert evening-like drapes and volumes in on a regular basis daywear types. Pleating was a key factor on every part from cardigans and shirting to trousers and t-shirt attire. “The important thing level is that by incorporating female pleats and gathers into masculine tailoring, it creates a genderless aesthetic,” stated Takahashi. It additionally provides a layer of oomph to essentially the most extraordinary of clothes, one thing few designers do with extra aplomb than Takahashi.
Elsewhere, Takahashi break up open the backs of jackets, hoodies, and button-downs and tied the unfastened ends collectively. The outcomes are playfully aerodynamic and decisively easy. There’s no want for hefty ideas and lofty explanations when garments are made with their wearers in thoughts. This vogue speaks for itself.
