Sia Arnika’s spring 2024 assortment was so coherent, not regardless of, however as a result of it was so filled with contrasts. “I all the time say that I’ve this dichotomy in me; two issues that I attempt to merge,” she stated after her present, the second she has staged in Berlin. “I assume that’s the place I really feel I’m as a designer and as an individual: between being extra grown up, and nonetheless with a really playful tackle style.”
These contrasts have been proven in minimalist tube tops, sheath clothes and mini skirts with flowy trains or harmonica-like skirt hems connected to them. Or in using tremendous delicate and light-weight, nearly technical supplies, which have been then laser lower in a method that was impressed by an old-school Danish lace sample, however blown up a lot it seemed like little moth holes. Bouncy fringe particulars have been made from patent materials in order that they seemed cool as a substitute of romantic; elegant night clothes have been damaged up with delicate voluminous hood draping or stiff padded techno supplies.
Arnika’s muse for the gathering additionally mixed completely different poles. Danish actress Asta Nielsen, born in 1881, turned profitable in Berlin in the course of the silent movie period (a parallel to the Danish Arnika, who has lived in Berlin for 12 years) and performed roles as various as an androgynous Hamlet to a seductress in “Abyss.” The spirit of this fierce girl was completely conveyed within the present manufacturing. The fashions, whose correct hair styling was harking back to Nielsen’s pageboy ’do, strode resolutely down the three open and spiraling flooring of a former glass façade nightclub of their pointy vast leg boots with double kitten heels, a collaboration with Chinese language/British footwear model Untitlab. An digital music set forcefully enjoying within the background. Berlin, however make it polished. “I actually really feel like I’ve arrived on the level the place I wish to be and wish to proceed, with me and with the gathering,” stated Arnika. You might really feel it.