If the climate gods had been on Shinya Kozuka’s facet at his final present in the summertime, tonight it appeared they had been demanding payback. On probably probably the most depressing wet night of the yr to this point, the designer held his fall present within the (drained, however nonetheless very moist) out of doors pool of the Tokyo Prince Resort.
On arrival we had been herded into a close-by cafeteria constructing to flee the deluge, as workers handed out translucent plastic rain ponchos. Then we filed outdoors to take our locations across the fringe of the swimming pool. Lots of of us sat there shivering like damp ghosts, bathed in blue mild from the pool as Tokyo Tower blazed pink into the evening sky above. It was fairly the scene.
When Kozuka’s fashions lastly got here out and sauntered across the empty pool, the inclement climate virtually appeared prefer it was by design, the fashions’ scuba flippers splashing calmly within the rain.
The pool took place as a result of Kozuka had taken up swimming after his final present as a solution to get in form, and mentioned he got here up with a lot of his concepts for this season’s assortment whereas within the water. There have been trompe l’oeil fur-printed jackets, nylon sewed to appear to be cable knit, and Kozuka’s personal festive tackle Honest Isle, which appeared throughout outsized sweaters, cozy hoodies, and gown-like coats. Then got here badge-covered jackets, sequin clothes, pinstripe fits, and one wispy poncho that rippled like water made material.
General there may be an unique sense of creativity to what Kozuka brings—his garments really don’t appear to be anybody else’s. However there was a lot floating round right here that, often, it felt underdeveloped. Kozuka has lots of concepts, however he must edit extra.
Nonetheless, there was a lot to take pleasure in, and the rain couldn’t dampen Kozuka’s spirit. Spilling over with inspiration because it was, the designer had named the gathering his Winter Feast. And although we went residence chilly and soggy, we finally left feeling nicely fed.
