“There’s this form of clichéd concept of the British seaside. Taking our public college uniform codes, mashing them up with the seaside and with Brighton Rock, which I studied at A-Stage.” Steven Stokey-Daley shot his S.S. Daley spring menswear assortment on a day journey to Margate on the Kent coast, on a suitably showery day to seize the very English attraction of his cheerful-in-all-weathers assortment.
For a begin, S.S. Daley’s many followers will certainly repair on the shorts motion: short-shorts that look like one thing between operating shorts, boxers, and possibly pajama bottoms. From the younger designer who introduced voluminous trousering into males’s style in 2020 this would possibly qualify as one thing of a volte-face. By no means, as he explains: “I’ve gone again to quite a lot of the analysis on numerous classic college sports activities uniforms that I did for my graduate assortment at Westminster College. There’s quite a lot of photos after they’re doing boxing and wrestling, in jersey all-in-ones with tremendous short-shorts,” he stated. “It’s a sexier facet of menswear. And, you realize, quite a lot of associates and folks round me have been pairing S.S. Daley with short-shorts this previous summer season.”
Rising his vary and his repertoire (whereas designing this assortment, he was additionally placing collectively his first girls’s present) is right down to Stokey-Daley’s innate sense of what’s helpful on the one hand, and accessibly quirky on the opposite. Name to witness his fish-print parka, sea-gull beaded high, or the ornithological silk scarf-pattern shirt. The waterproof fish-tail parka got here to thoughts, he associated, from Sixties mods, as seen within the 2011 film remake of Graham Greene’s basic Brighton Rock. The anti-hero gangster character Pinkie Brown’s shirt and tie styling additionally acquired collaged into the narrative, together with Stokey-Daley’s childhood recollections of Northern seaside holidays, and a cache of souvenirs inherited from his associate Leo’s grandmother.
“She was only a marvelous woman filled with craft and creativeness who collected issues. Earlier than she handed, she despatched Leo a pin with ‘I is probably not wealthy, however I’m a hell of a tap-dancer’ on it.” The motto grew to become an emblem on a flocked sweatshirt—one more within the collection of the cheery collectibles that maintain followers entertained, and purchasing.
Narratives apart, he stated this 12 months has been about “diving deeper into easier clothes, and offering form of complicated element that the client can have interaction with on the hanger,” in addition to determining loosen up trad-looking supplies to work throughout hotter climates. That applies to the ivory trench coat, made in a light-weight Japanese broadcloth minutely chain-stitched with crimson edging, as if constituted of an previous piece of English bed-linen. Or the light-weight Tattersall examine tour jacket, and new iterations of his knit jersey singlets with their distinctive side-bow fastenings. Look intently, and also you’ll spot the branding in true S.S. Daley-style vintage-looking labels, right here and there. “Really feel Good Casuals” it reads. Nearly sums up the pleasant attraction of Stokey-Daley’s burgeoning enchantment.
