When Rodarte arrived on the scene in 2006, romance was their calling card. But prettiness was never a final destination for Kate and Laura Mulleavy. A darker, edgier side started to emerge with their fifth collection, for spring 2008, the one where their cobweb sweaters first made an appearance. Spiders have never put off the sisters as they did Miss Muffet, and with their fall collection’s gigantic tulle-wrapped wire web hats the Mulleavys demonstrate that they have become accomplished arachnologists.
Delicate and shimmering hand-beaded webs are embedded into the second and last looks here. Made of tulle and many varieties of Chantilly lace, these gowns are anchor pieces for a collection which, Laura explained, is about “this idea of webs being spun and just different ways of thinking about it without it being about decay or things that are deconstructed.” The lightness of the web dresses is complemented by the opening look, featuring a top of smocked chiffon banded with lace that collapses like a slinky, and which is grounded by a hem of cascading ruffles and languorous trains.
The other high points of this collection are the dramatic and sculptural dresses made of ruched taffeta. Kate said she was seeking a midpoint between the Renaissance and the Gothic. This wasn’t a narrative collection; rather it was focused on draping and construction. Instead of spinning out a tale, the sisters relied on Suspira-inspired lighting to create a mood. That it did, but it didn’t necessarily show the clothing to its best advantage. Speaking of the collection, Laura said, “maybe it was more like thinking about great moments of clothing within film and really beautiful lighting.” Indeed, the designers’ memories are quite enmeshed with cinema lore.
