Lorenzo Serafini envisioned pre-fall as a kind of face-off between the enigmatic enchantment of Hitchcock’s Nineteen Fifties divas and the pared-down sleekness of the Nineteen Nineties. At a showroom appointment he stated that whereas he was drawn to the magnetism of mysterious femininity, he stayed true to the convenience and readability of design that right this moment’s girls anticipate. His heroine was maybe extra Kim Novak than Grace Kelly—fashionable, concise appeal quite than glacial hauteur.
Mysterious attract however, consolation was paramount to Serafini, a lot so that each one the materials within the assortment had built-in stretch to make them elastic and straightforward to maneuver with. Even the hourglass-y shapes he favors and the ample circle skirts paired with fitted turtlenecks have been made in uncommon blends of mesh and scuba, finely printed to appear to be masculine wool. Textures spanned from solids to excessive sheers, nearly like hosiery. “Sensuality and luxury, that’s what it’s all about,” stated Serafini.
There’s at all times a sleek aspect to his design; he’s not into overdressing or in-your-face statements. Right here the smooth traces impressed by ’90s minimalism have been softened by light drapings à la Geoffrey Beene, prettifying even essentially the most sinuous silhouettes, or have been enhanced by contrasting performs of matte and sheer textures. Outerwear was enveloping and comforting; coats and cabans had a gentle and comfy really feel, with hooded scarves for going incognito; they properly complemented female ruched attire reduce on the bias. For night, Serafini twisted masculine materials into unconventional sensual silhouettes, or reverted to black bodycon numbers for drama. Even when discretion is a part of his vocabulary, going unnoticed isn’t an choice.
