For fall, Nanushka’s Sandra Sándor went again to reminiscence lane to her teenage years rising up in Hungary. Earlier than the autumn of the Iron Curtain in 1989, crossing borders was forbidden; trend was anathema. Sándor and her household traveled extensively inside the nation, so her sense of trend was initially formed by the utilitarian folklore of native rural communities’ conventional costumes. It was solely later that she got here throughout trend magazines from the US : “It was a revelation,” she mentioned. “It opened up a wholly new world. I used to be in love.”
The co-ed assortment was about layers of non-public reminiscences: “I wished to take a look at myself, going on the roots of my fashion; it’s the ‘90s seen by the eyes of a Hungarian teenager,” mentioned Sándor. She referenced the uncooked great thing about the shepherds’ coats produced from the curly vellum of racka sheep in addition to the midriff-baring tops and the leggy minidresses worn by supermodels within the pages of Vogue; the sporty zip-up sweaters her father used to put on for tennis tournaments had been as sturdy an inspiration because the sturdy black leather-based biker jacket of a rider boyfriend. They had been translated by Sándor into Nanushka’s utilitarian, minimalist put on, whose understated really feel was elevated this season by luxurious textures and a give attention to crafted surfaces.
Standouts within the gender fluid lineup had been voluminous nomadic coats and waistcoats in white fake fur mimicking racka sheepskin, cropped boxy jackets in gentle tech velvet quilted with conventional Kopjafa symbols, and maxi A-line metropolis coats and protecting capes in black regenerated leather-based bonded in shearling. Sándor continued to broaden the analysis on sustainable materials and coverings, in line with Nanushka’s ethos of accountable manufacturing; the upcycled OKOBOR (the label’s trademark alt-leather) was rendered into an elastic seersucker smocked material, whereas a fake sheep conceal featured a thick, compact texture and a easy, gentle end.