Like many designers this season, Naeem Khan was drawn to the thought of stripping issues again and toying with minimalism. “I wanted a palate cleanser—like a sorbet after an incredible appetizer,” says the Indian-American designer. However simplicity seems to be just a little totally different for somebody who’s recognized for his extravagant eveningwear and heavy embroidery work. As an alternative of making stark, impartial frocks, Khan experimented with discovering delicate new methods to method get together dressing in his personal method—placing emphasis on quieter colours and thrives to let his craftsmanship shine.
A method wherein Khan refined his assortment was by zeroing in on a brand new architectural inspiration. He seemed to “masters of modernism,” as he calls them, resembling David Chipperfield and Zahn Hadid, to ignite concepts for sculptural designs. “I needed garments that had been architectural,” stated Khan. “Even with the ballgowns, I didn’t need large quantity. It was about preserving every little thing minimal—however minimal in my world, as a result of I’m so excessive.” His floor-length, short-sleeved navy robe made use of raffia appliqué for a textural form. “I really like raffia as a result of it’s natural,” he stated. “We developed this method in Italy the place you truly sew the raffia on this summary sample. It offers me construction.”
There have been different colourful concepts within the combine, too. His silk halter robes—in purple, crimson, and magenta—had formed rosettes on the neckline, which offered simply the correct quantity of drama. Seems, they had been an adaptation of a bridal robe he designed. “I did a rosette bridal costume in a blush coloration, and it was everyone’s favourite costume,” he stated. LBDs, in the meantime, had Swarovski trims alongside the neckline and again. They had been created with dancing in thoughts. “[The long gown] has bought just a little flare to it on the backside,” he stated, “so should you’re dancing, it swings whenever you transfer.”
Positive, Khan’s glitzy clothes imply he’s sticking to his signatures, however there have been technical improvements right here. His sleeveless, champagne-colored column robe had intricate leaf-style embroidery throughout it—all utilized onto a snug (and surprising) jersey cloth. “It molds to your physique, and whenever you pack it from journey, you don’t even should iron it, “ he stated. Name it glamour on the go.
