Federico Bruno’s recent journey to Mongolia left him with a lasting impression, not only of scenic landscapes but of radical simplicity. Among local nomadic communities, he observed a life unburdened by excess: few possessions, no attachment to social media, constant movement alongside extended families. “They seem to know how to let go,” he said. “They look at you almost as if you were the poor one, because of the pride they bring to everything they do.”
That sense of serene dignity became the conceptual backbone of Bruno’s fall presentation, staged inside a fencing school. Models drifted slowly across carpets, shedding Mordecai jackets and piuminos as they walked, letting them fall to the floor, only for the next model to pick them up and carry them forward. Clothes were released, but not wasted. “Letting go is an art,” Bruno reflected, “and one that we Westerners are not particularly well trained to practice.”
To make the ceremonial shedding of Mordecai piuminos less of a workout, Bruno lightened them up this season, literally and figuratively. Volumes were pared back, silhouettes slimmed down, and the once-bulbous padding deflated into something far more streamlined. What remained was a clearer emphasis on functionality and practicality, distilled from what was previously an imposing, almost architectural presence.
That said, Bruno’s technical muscle, honed during his time at Moncler, hasn’t gone anywhere. On the contrary, the construction remained impressively clever, the functional solutions thoughtfully engineered, and the exploration of textures both sophisticated and refreshingly singular. In short: lighter jackets, heavyweight know-how.
