The younger Belgian designer Marie Adam-Leenaerdt is working her approach via the constructing blocks of a lady’s wardrobe. Her season-one assortment was dedicated to “workplace put on” and her second to “vacation garments.” The present she placed on right this moment was dedicated to the skirt. If a fast look at these pictures suggests in any other case, that’s as a result of Adam-Leenaerdt is a course of oriented designer, and a little bit of a sample obsessive too. Her concept was to check the skirt’s versatility and to discover its potentialities.
There have been a few midi-length skirts that she additionally confirmed as trapeze clothes, the waistband slipping asymmetrically off a naked shoulder; coats whose collars seemed extra like waistbands; and luggage of all sizes designed with horizontal zips—take away the center sections and guess what they appear to be? “Skirt skirt, costume skirt, coat skirt, bag skirt,” is how she put it on her press notes. Even the marriage costume finale was constructed merely, like a skirt with hoops that gave it its tenting quantity.
This type of venture can go badly flawed, however Adam-Leenaerdt’s cuts are store-ready. Her selection of venue, an empty Kookai retailer in Paris’s sixth Arrondissement, might need been chosen to make that time. Backstage she reported that she picked up 10 new accounts final season, together with Bergdorf Goodman, Dover Road Market, Blake Chicago.
And it wasn’t all skirts or skirt-adjacencies. The padded down coats with built-in scarves have been assertion making, particularly in brilliant crimson. And for pants-loving ladies, she had smart-looking straight leg trousers, which she paired with tailor-made jackets with button plackets that stick out on the perpendicular as a substitute of laying flat towards the torso. Adam-Leenaerdt isn’t making plenty of noise but, however for many who have an interest within the nice particulars of tailoring, and put money into them, she might be a stealth asset.
