In a warehouse space in Tokyo Bay on a chilly evening, Kamiya’s show sat somewhere between a runway presentation and a concert. Nigerian-American rapper Tobi Lou provided the soundtrack with a live stage performance at the head of the runway: “Can’t kill me, I’m a bad bitch,” went one of the songs.
The music suited the clothes, which dripped with the streetwise attitude Kamiya is known for. Glossy nylon MA-1 bombers with faux fur collars were worn over track pants and tailoring, and models toted leather handbags finished with a gold Kamiya monogram, indicating a commercial push. Kamiya, which was launched under Mihara Yasuhiro’s company SOSU in 2023, has much in common with Yasuhiro’s eponymous brand and its intentionally disorderly streetwear, but is a little grittier and more straightforward.
As usual, hallmarks of grunge were threaded throughout: raggedy long cardigans, brushed cotton plaid flannel shirting, and baggy patched-up jeans worn with belt chains. What made it feel fresh was the injection of sexiness that Kamiya has been playing with since last season. There was the shirting he introduced for spring, along with some louche, clavicle-baring tailoring that livened up the mix, plus denim wrap skirts that complicated the silhouettes to interesting effect. Branded boxer shorts peeked out from low-slung, knee-slashed jeans, while washed-out hoodies and sanded leathers were shrugged over bare torsos.
“I wanted to create something sexy that was for men. How should I put it?” the designer thought for a second. “It’s about pursuing a masculinity that comes from within, rather than trying to look cool on social media.” At a time when mainstream masculinity on social media, at least in the West, revolves around an increasingly toxic online manosphere, that sentiment felt like a balm.
