Editor’s observe: Since Jean Paul Gaultier’s retirement from the catwalk, every season the home invitations a brand new visitor designer to create a couture assortment impressed by the designer’s unimaginable archive. Earlier than Julien Dossena’s debut present, we have a look again at Gaultier’s new digitized Fall 2000 couture presentation. This present was initially offered in July 2000 in Paris.
Jean Paul Gaultier, the everlasting “enfant horrible” of French trend, didn’t stay as much as the repute along with his Autumn 2000 couture assortment, which was très soigné and paid respect to the traditions of the métier. Mannequin Sylvia van der Klooster remembers that the appears to be like have been introduced with numbers, similar to earlier than. “It was the primary time I met Jean Paul,” she recollects, “and he was and has all the time been probably the most pleasant, cheerful and attention-grabbing designer. He informed me I appeared like Isabelle Adjani on the becoming (I needed to see her, I keep in mind).” Nevertheless, it was one other French icon, the hanging Kiki de Montparnasse, muse of avant-garde artists, who was depicted on the clothes. A pair of flapper-style clothes nodded to her heyday.
In distinction to the theatricality of John Galliano’s assortment for Christian Dior with mischievous nurses and Marie Antoinette – all very good – Gaultier created subtle, grown-up garments which might be simple to think about being worn to a gala occasion or on a crimson carpet. They have been a hearty meal, relatively than a dessert (as in having cake eaten), however nonetheless loads of fantasy.
There was glamor and gravitas right here; maybe contributing to the latter was the distinctive focus of the gathering. It was a valentine to Gaultier’s true and most steadfast love, Paris. He did not fairly let go of his ties to punk (observe his use of plaid) or the sari or the ditch coat, however this exploration of many elements of the Metropolis of Lights, from dandy to sailor, from berets to lovely lace, grew to become full. carrying an Eiffel Tower costume fitted with fiber optic lighting. That tower, a monument to the economic revolution, additionally appeared on stockings and heels. Gaultier even mapped the neon lights of Pigalle, and in writing jewelery and passementerie he expressed his love for the French capital in letters. Stripes marineres, in sequins, nodded to the designer’s personal uniform.
Public shows of affection are Paris-approved, and a few clothes featured the picture of a pair kissing that appeared prefer it was taken from an previous film (one other JPG pastime). Grown on a inexperienced strapless, this picture appears to be like grainy, which appears becoming. After surviving Y2K, the digital age had arrived. Twenty-three years later, it is lots like glitchcore, is not it?
