Elaine George, the first-ever First Nations mannequin to look on the duvet of Vogue Australia, opened the Iordanos Spyridon Gogos resort present, strolling dramatically down the runway in a sleeveless costume pieced collectively from rectangular items of cloth in varied shades of goldenrod, a few of them closely embellished. The response from the group was audibly joyous.
It was a becoming introduction to Jordan Gogos’s newest assortment, which was anchored in lots of icons of Australian trend. Amongst them is Akira Isogawa, a frequent collaborator of Gogos’s identified for beautiful embroidery rendered in each delicate and maximalist methods. Right here that included a layered chiffon robe embroidered with a notice written by Gogos’s grandfather, who the model is known as after. “I discovered my Pappou’s lotto numbers in a Greek cookbook, and Akira beaded them,” he defined in his studio the day earlier than his present. “He was all the time like, ‘If I win the lottery, I’ll purchase you this; as a result of if you end up Greek and in a suburban family quite a lot of your relationships are in regards to the issues they wish to provide you with. He stored the identical numbers his complete life.”
Gogos additionally joined forces with Jenny Banister, recreating a sequence of her “punk” clothes from the Seventies, one among which was produced from geometric items of cloth held collectively by zip ties. And since you “can’t analysis Jenny with out Linda,” as he put it, he dove into Linda Jackson’s archives, unearthing the designer’s treasures within the course of; most notably a field of her model labels, which he sewed one after the other right into a sleeveless robe with an all-over ruffled trim. A spectacular knee-length costume with dramatic sleeves had particular person tiny squares of Jackson’s classic materials—floral prints, tribal prints, daring solids—all sewn-on in origami shapes, coming collectively to create a type of strolling reference library.
Gogos’s trend label is, in impact, an artwork venture. Items are one-of-a-kind, labored over individually till he deems them executed, and will not be for industrial replica. He solely only recently began promoting a few of his archival items, and is “very cautious,” about who he sells to. “I formally doc who has it, the place it’s, the place they’re sporting it.”
“My clients are collectors who often purchase with the intention of donating to an establishment sooner or later,” he defined. “The dynamics of working with Akira, the items produced from Linda’s archive—these are issues that may by no means be replicated once more.” Their worth lies past the standard components and labor, however into the historical past they each resurface and construct upon.
