In vogue as in life, timing is every thing. The launch of the brand new Emilio Pucci assortment coincided with Beyoncé carrying a customized Pucci search for a efficiency in Inglewood, California, on September 2, as a part of her Renaissance World Tour. “It’s been big,” stated Camille Miceli of the position. A 12 months has handed since her appointment because the model’s artistic director, and having Queen Bey’s stamp of approval is an help that absolutely makes the anniversary sweeter.
On stage, Beyoncé and her dancers donned coordinating catsuits printed within the new Pucci Giardino motif, a part of the autumn/winter assortment Miceli has named Supernova—an apt nod to the performer’s stellar standing. Miceli has steered Pucci in direction of expressive, audacious territory that fits high-wattage celebrities and real-life firecrackers alike: “It’s for girls with actual presence, who usually are not afraid of displaying their confidence. It isn’t discreet. It isn’t under-the-radar bourgeois. It’s a maison for girls who embrace who they’re, and dare to be seen,” she stated. Demure wallflowers, go elsewhere.
Miceli is constructing a constant aesthetic on the label, every season introducing some slight detour that doesn’t stray from the method she has established to provide new luster and pep to the fading Italian model. “Pucci has all the time been about loopy prints splashed throughout fairly easy, simple shapes,” she stated. For winter, Miceli and her staff labored on new prints, upping the ante with much more trippy whirlwinds of graphics and colours. Some riffed on archival late ’50s patterns turned psychedelic, just like the Leocorno, impressed by one of many vibrant flags of the Palio di Siena—the wild historic horse race that has taken place each August in Siena’s round primary sq. because the Center Ages.
Miceli is a fan of a person method to model, the extra ebullient the higher. Right here she alternated horny body-con silhouettes with extra billowy shapes, brief skater miniskirts with voluminous padded piumino capes, and knitted blanket ponchos with second-skin, tattoo-effect printed mesh catsuits. New this season had been night numbers in crisp black taffeta and what she known as “Peaky Blinders fits,” or masculine tailor-made tuxedos in black velvet with printed lapels. Miceli gave all of them playful, eccentric twists. An asymmetrical high had big rosettes blooming throughout the décolletage, whereas a voluminous taffeta costume was worn underneath a windbreaker and completed off with a fearless pair of furry over-the-knees Yeti boots. “Enjoying with contrasts is dangerous,” she conceded. “However that’s what I discover fascinating to discover.”
