The invitation to at this time’s Dolce & Gabbana males’s present got here on a thick black card overprinted with simply the phrase ‘Smooth,’ so that you thought you knew what to anticipate—lean silhouettes devoid of elaborations, some polished gloss, fastidious grooming. However as Domenico Dolce identified on the press convention, phrases usually deliver us to all of the unsuitable locations, evoking predictable pictures or meanings. “What this assortment is about is definitely fairly easy—true magnificence,” he mentioned. “It’s about the great thing about the handmade and the supreme high quality that comes from our virtually obsessive information of the principles of tailoring.”
It’s information they’ve definitely mastered, as their sartoria was established within the first place after they launched their model within the mid-’80s; the apply of the fatto a mano, the handmade, has all the time given substance to their designs. It’s not a secret that the fits coming from their ateliers are among the many greatest within the enterprise. This assortment was a celebration of the designers’ sartorial experience, grounded within the nice custom of traditional Italian tailoring but synced as much as meet the renewed aptitude for magnificence of younger generations. “The proportions and development are of the essence: a well-cut jacket provides you posture and presence,” mentioned Stefano Gabbana. “But it’s not solely a decades-long passionate dedication to exacting execution,” mentioned Dolce, “It’s additionally about our fixed rumination on the thought of masculinity.”
The present’s 62 appears to be like have been principally fits and principally in black, with solely three fits in white, a coat in camel, one other in grey and a few fabulous, excellent furs made out of fluffy shearling. Tailoring clearly reigned supreme, infused with each precision and sensuality, permeated with a way of romance and old-school attract the designers known as “aristocratic as in a Visconti film, match for a younger Helmut Berger or Rudolf Nureyev.”
The elegant repertoire of spencer jackets, tuxedos, and tight-coats was given a languid formality, with luscious blouses in creamy satin changing white poplin smoking shirts and frivolous bows closing buttonless blazers. Skinny scarf collars and organza flowers on flat black patent night sneakers hinted at a sensuous tackle the masculine. The soundtrack, a soulful piano piece, in addition to the soft-gray padding of the venue, gave the present an elegant, velvety vibe.
As all the time with Dolce & Gabbana, there was no scarcity of entrance row motion. Whereas Jeff Bezos took within the ambiance, spouse Lauren Sanchez watched proudly as her son Nikko Gonzalez walked the present. Outdoors the Metropol venue, the same old screaming crowd of youngsters went loopy for younger Korean stars Rowoon, Younghoon, Hyunjae, and DPR Ian, who have been dressed not in shredded jeans or slouchy tracksuits, however in Dolce & Gabbana’s impeccably lower sartoria fits.