David Koma is all about his crew. Via his womenswear he’s already built a stable following of enthusiastic subscribers to his graphic model of highly effective night put on. Now, after 15 years, he’s attempting to broaden his base by offering garments that his male soulmates will wish to get into, too. At a preview, he mentioned: “A key problem for me was to have the depth and selection within the assortment actually resonate with the broad group of associates that I’ve throughout totally different ages, professions and nationalities, and every part that they do of their life.”
Koma imposed a free division between offstage and onstage to demarcate daywear and evening. Each subsets had been strongly influenced by dance, particularly Jiří Kylián’s Sarabande, a chunk which the designer mentioned “accommodates this wonderful mixture of traditional ballet and extra up to date dance.” T-shirts got here printed with silhouetted images exhibiting a dancer who can also be the associate of a senior member of Koma’s design workforce. The gathering blended humor and fantasy by way of numerous items together with inky black boxer-short shorts (with false flies) spackled with crystals and black leather-based brief-bloomers. There have been vests in embroidered crystal mesh, a fabric carried over from ladies’s resort, and a shirt in child deerskin that prefigured (mentioned Koma) his subsequent womenswear mainline assortment. Fabulous cumbersome baggage in black or scarlet marabou additionally doubled handily as excessive headpieces.
Offstage, there have been robust work pants and blazers in two-tone cracked leather-based, darkish jeans, and a black leather-based stevedore’s jacket. Hoodies and T-shirts got here printed with the black on black define of a faun. Footwear and boots had raised chisel toes: romper stompers.
Again onstage a crinkle-finish trench in a handled, papery cotton was dramatically tassled by an extended loop of marabou threaded by way of one epaulet: concurrently ceremonial navy and industrial camp. Extra marabou fringing was utilized to a lilac crystal-spotted button up, whereas a black satin blazer was shrouded with a shinily versatile haze of lurex thread. A T-shirt was embedded with the crystal define of a corseted torso; black leather-based basketball shorts got here bisected at one leg by a horizontal double line of stainless-steel rivets: simply as Koma typically performs arduous strains towards softness and contour within the feminine kind he was making use of totally different topographies towards the male with the intention to depict an abstracted sensual athleticism.
