To wit, Stevie Sims (daughter of David Sims and Luella Bartley), Sofia Testino (daughter of Artwork Accomplice founder Giovanni Testino), and Ella Richards (granddaughter of Keith Richards and Anita Pallenberg) all walked—nepo child discourse be damned—whereas the closing look was worn by the blue-blooded magnificence editor Tish Weinstock. But elsewhere within the lineup was Consani, after all, together with Vogue cowl star Valuable Lee and the non-binary mannequin and poet Kai-Isaiah Jamal. For Ives, the casting mirrored his imaginative and prescient of what excessive society appears to be like like as we speak, and the (relative, not less than) democracy of who you would possibly discover in these areas in London. “Clearly there are nonetheless a number of social obstacles in London, however whenever you get all these individuals in a single room, it does really feel like these obstacles fall down,” he mentioned.
What made the gathering actually shine, nonetheless, was Ives’s considerate use of upcycled supplies. Ives is one among London vogue’s most eloquent younger voices on sustainability, however he’s additionally cautious to solely communicate on what he actually is aware of. “I feel everybody must be just a little extra sincere about what we’re doing on that entrance,” he mentioned. “There’s a number of buzzwords flying round on a regular basis, and I’m undecided many individuals actually know what they imply.” For fall, his horror on the wastefulness of our consumerist world was subtly woven all through: a lot of his jersey items had been produced from deadstock army surplus, one thing he describes for instance of “waste in additional methods than one,” whereas a standout silk bubble gown was produced from a Qing Dynasty wall tapestry, which he intentionally left in its uncooked state (in contrast to, say, the restoration course of he embarks on with the piano shawls he sources from vintage sellers). It served as a potent reminder of the sweetness to be discovered within the discarded and forgotten.
Which leads us to that ultimate look: a white organza robe hand-embroidered with cast-off headphone cables sourced from an electronics manufacturing facility. (Ives is nothing if not a vogue nerd, and also you get the sense that the thought of closing every present with a bridal look is catnip for a designer who grew up idolizing the nice French couturiers whereas flicking via his month-to-month situation of Vogue.) Worn by Weinstock, it was duly paraded across the room, then stood satisfaction of place within the heart because the fashions took their ultimate walks to Björk’s “Headphones.” It turned out that Ives’s inspiration really lay in his frustration with the thought of the junk drawer. Right here, although, Ives turned trash into treasure—and even the haughtiest of Capote’s Swans couldn’t flip their nostril up at that.
