Alexandre Vauthier charted a distinct path for couture, dropping the flash of his spring outing in favor of neat shapes based mostly on his mastery of lower, changing dashing colours with dense blacks and exuberant volumes with sharp silhouettes . “I am not a reductionist, however the state of the world, the noise and harshness round us power me to seek for steadiness, to floor my work on its important foundations,” he mentioned backstage. Considerably, Erik Satie and Leonard Cohen adopted on the soundtrack the cutting-edge techno beats he often prefers.
Vauthier revised his repertoire “in quest of austerity and attract”, he mentioned. He solid fashions like Karmen Pedaru, Carmen Kass, Élise Crombez, Georgina Grenville, “girls who know the way to stroll,” who embrace their age whereas nonetheless wanting breathtakingly stunning with virtually no make-up and simply hair pulled again . Stilettos and stiletto heels have been nowhere to be seen: Stacked heels made up the silhouette “in actuality,” Vauthier mentioned. “It’s not the time for opulence.” The colour scheme hinted at a type of neutrality, a toned-down, elegant canvas to emphasise individuality.
Vauthier is a grasp tailor and this assortment was testomony to his capacity to get creative with the instruments of couture – lower, development, execution, savoir faire. Whereas sticking to a slim, elongated silhouette, he performed with variations of drape, uncommon asymmetries, tows and capes so as to add sensuality and drama to lengthy, flowing attire or tops worn with form-fitting pants. Clothes have been robust however not strict: A velvet trouser swimsuit with satin sharp lapels was lower with “millimetric precision,” he mentioned. With the identical scrupulousness, the designer approached the tailoring of a males’s swimsuit, which was launched right here for the primary time.
Showmanship is ingrained in Vauthier’s style genes; there have been plenty of showstoppers that added rhythm to the gathering, similar to a black stretchy leotard whose again prolonged right into a billowing cape that was densely embellished with tiny silver beads. Flashes of bronze and gold lamé, the wealthy textures of brocade and the pleated ruffled rosettes exploding from form-fitting tops worn with finely pleated gaiters had excessive visible impression. Whatever the quest for essentiality, Vauthier’s thought of attract isn’t removed from daring, assured gestures.
