Presenting the fall Alberta Ferretti collection in Dubai, a wealthy market at the crossroads of tradition and innovation, was not exactly business as usual for Lorenzo Serafini, but fashion rarely thrives on routine. Invited to open Dubai Fashion Week, “I found myself in the role of ambassador for Made in Italy,” he said, an assignment he seemed to accept with equal parts pride and amusement. The invitation arrived after the collection was already underway, which suited him just fine. “We didn’t design it for a specific place,” he explained. “Thinking too locally today is almost quaint.”
The collection marked a gentle but confident evolution of his work at the brand. Silhouettes moved closer to the body, led by cinched-waisted jackets and pleated A-line skirts in butter-soft nappa leather, expressions of what he calls “soft power tailoring.” Rounded shoulders, a defined waistline, a flattering peplum, and a romantic ruched blouse slipped underneath framed the look. For Serafini, romance is not a weakness but a signature. “It’s an indulgence I refuse to give up,” he noted.
There was, as ever, a dash of nostalgia: a ’70s-chic spirit hovered over the collection, mingling with hints of “bourgeois Victoriana.” Flowing chiffon caftans, caped silhouettes, and languid volumes all belong to Serafini’s vocabulary, adaptable to any geography even if they weren’t designed with one in mind. He reworked them here with more exuberance, going for abundant ruffles and feathers, bursts of bright colors, and some fast-paced glitz. “The work I’m doing here is evolving,” he reflected. “My idea of the woman is clearer now, and I feel more confident proposing my vision.”
Alberta Ferretti herself attended the show, and was visibly moved. Serafini said he feels fortunate. “She has always supported me, and the brand is close to my own aesthetic, so we’ve been aligned since day one.” Asked about the industry’s carousel of designer changes, his wit turned gently sharp. Constant upheaval, he believes, serves no one. “A creative needs time to enter a house, to understand it, to grow into it. Too much disruption confuses everyone, the client, the press, the brand’s identity.” His own method has been the opposite of revolution for revolution’s sake: gradual and attentive. When Ferretti stepped back, she gave him rare freedom. “She told me: I like what you’re doing. I don’t want to influence you. I’m here if you need me, but go your own way.” Her best advice was simple: don’t be afraid. He has taken it to heart.
