Our Legacy’s affect on menswear is such that editors, talking in shorthand, describe some rising manufacturers as making an attempt to be the subsequent OL. Basically they’re speaking in regards to the legacy of Our Legacy—legacy2?—which incorporates an anti-fashion stance that embraces grunge, moto, and army influences and lends a way of timelessness to the items. There’s additionally a muted colour palette and, for the reason that introduction of girls’s, a two-way sort of androgyny. In brief, effortlessness (vogue’s holy grail) imbued with cool. A few of these components might be replicated however the energy of the “Our” within the model identify can’t be neglected. This unbiased label was based by three tight-knit mates, and, in his quiet and assured manner, inventive director Cristopher Nying takes his personal experiences and abstracts them in such a manner that they’re without delay private and common.
This season the abstraction was bodily manifest within the lookbook through which fashions have been photographed behind glass, at a take away, with reflections generally including texture to the pictures. This may very well be learn as a metaphor for contemporary life in a digital age, the place content material is consumed by a glass display screen, however Nying had one thing completely different in thoughts.
The gathering’s place to begin was Greek fishing villages, and images of DIY cloth-wrapped motors taken there by Nying’s pal Hank Grüner. Seaside detritus, corresponding to grape vines, bottle caps, shell fragments, rope, and fishing lures have been upcycled or solid into jewellery. Fishing nets impressed a knotted tank, and the shapes of sails made their manner into wrapped skirts. Technical gear for marine life was one other affect, most dramatically in a life vest-like gilet that swelled out right into a peplum.
Nying achieved a “moist look” in varied intriguing methods. Ethereal crinkled sweaters have been manufactured from a mixture of silk and steel threads, and a cropped white nylon jacket was washed and shrunken to create a clinging impact. There was a requisite marinière stripe created by shadow-like transparencies on a suppose knit. The traditional sailor shirt with the flap collar was edited right into a loose-fit, high-buttoning blazer with a “falling collar.” Constructing on the Mediterranean theme, a couple of of the ladies’s seems adopted the curvy “bella figura” silhouette, however deconstructed the OL manner. Ingeniously, a filmy, tied-at-the-waist skirt was is actually an oversize T-shirt and may very well be worn as one. Equally, essential gown coat may very well be worn inside-out.
Nying’s imaginary fishing village is, apparently, sun-scorched because the fashions had synthetic sun-burns. Their wet-looks might characterize sweat as simply as ocean water; actually, the glass urged the previous. The intention, Nying stated, was to create the sensation of being “inside a bubble or inside a terminal. I needed to go away it a bit open; it may very well be that you just come inside from a extremely popular, dreamy place, however I nonetheless needed it to really feel such as you missed the aircraft to this dream place and are standing in a terminal in an airport or one thing.” There was one thing dreamy about the entire situation that verged on the surreal. This side of the spring lineup was captured in two stunning equipment. Referencing Donald Duck’s fishing misadventures the place the catch just isn’t a fish however an outdated shoe, there was a “collapsing guide” shoe that appeared like a Tom Rath-style enterprise shoe, that may very well be worn as a slip on. The gathering’s sunken treasure was a faceless silver watch. Breaking with Dalí, Nying’s timepiece wasn’t melting: as a substitute time was suspended and gratification delayed—at the very least till this catch of a group lands in shops.
