After weeks of limitless grey drizzle in London (however what’s new about that), it was a tonic to step into Duro Olowu’s colourful world on a very gloomy Tuesday afternoon. Seated inside a buddy’s flat inside a historic Chelsea residence block, and with the blazing colours of an summary Marina Adams portray as a backdrop, Olowu was able to unveil his fall assortment in his personal, inimitable model. Specifically, with a pair of fashions parading his newest set of maximalist sartorial confections by way of the lounge, as Olowu himself offered a working commentary.
Besides, this time round, Olowu’s place to begin wasn’t a movie or a ebook (because it usually is) however moderately, a temper. Whereas there have been nonetheless loads of flashes of his signature eye-popping prints, the print that recurred most was one among multi-colored stripes, which Olowu intentionally desaturated by way of a course of he in comparison with color-grading a film; extra particularly, he referenced the concept of taking the Technicolor of Powell and Pressburger’s The Purple Sneakers and dialing it again to one thing extra muted. “I didn’t need it to really feel too loud,” Olowu stated. “It’s about ease and self-assurance.”
This care and precision—and ease—was seen within the meticulous development of each piece: ’50s-inspired leopard-print automobile coats with loads of satisfying swish; a striped shawl-collar shirt and pleated skirt set, fitted to make sure each stripe lined up completely, even throughout the cinched waist; coats lower from a feather-light, textured silk rayon to double up as a gown in the summertime; peasant-sleeve robes lower from a riot of artfully clashing patterns, seamed collectively from classic Italian materials and prints of Olowu’s personal design. Maybe probably the most stunning new entry to Olowu’s canon? Hoodies—seamed collectively from eye-popping combos of floral crushed velvets and shimmering iridescent brocades.
However as all the time, the satan was within the particulars; from the elegant drape of a skirt, to the mild pointing-up of the shoulders on a form-fitting gown that balanced out the nipped-in waist. “It’s about utilizing quantity—to not cowl issues up, however to intensify,” Olowu famous. His eye for colour and print will all the time dazzle, nevertheless it’s nonetheless these considerate subtleties that shine brightest.
