Feeling, as he stated on a name, that “the world is sort of sick,” Lamine Badian Kouyaté—a person who has by no means been afraid to take a stand for what he believes in—staged his fall 2024 present in respectful silence. The present came about at Le Sentier, a neighborhood that was as soon as the guts of the garment district, the place folks from throughout the globe sometimes collect. It additionally lives within the designer’s thoughts because the birthplace of much-loved Parisian manufacturers of the ’80s and ’90s like “Dorothée Bis, Marithé + François Girbaud, Infinitif, Chevignon, Naf Naf, Sapon, Metropolis, La Soie de Paris, Morgan, Kokai, Sinequanone,” which he talked about within the present notes. His personal model is a part of that storied group (it was based in 1991), and the solid included many second-generation members of his chosen household.
On this assortment Kouyaté revisited a few of his label’s core parts, particularly, “the prints, the colour, and the recycling (be aware the spiced soccer jerseys and the Hôtel du Sentier workwear).” The designer works with a silk-screener to make the prints that cowl stretch attire with their signature red-stitch seams. This lettering seemed freshest on denim—particularly notable was the “stealth” model, which was black ink printed on darkish blue denim—and the matching maxi-skirt-and-top units. Kouyaté associates this skirt size with recollections of his older brothers and their curiosity within the American Civil Rights and anti-war actions of the late ’60s and ’70s (the place protest indicators had been notably printed with massive textual content too.) Accordingly, the designer titled the gathering “Make Love Not Conflict.”
