On a wet Tuesday afternoon, the spring 2024 season of Copenhagen Trend Week started on the Design Museum, the place Danish designer A. Roege Hove introduced a set of structured, fashionable knitwear made with a close to zero-waste manufacturing approach. The present opened with a sheer, white high embellished with silver beads that’s a part of the model’s new partnership with century-old Danish design model Georg Jenson. One would possibly say that this explicit garment—a sustainably made piece from an rising designer who’s paying homage to Denmark’s historical past—is emblematic of Copenhagen Trend Week and its rising expertise.
An emphasis on sustainability and Danish design heritage are obvious in each element of the five-day extravaganza. Presenting designers are required to satisfy sustainability pointers set forth by the group of Copenhagen Trend Week in an effort to present. Plant-based supplies, waste-reduction methods, and paired-back collections show that town’s strategy to vogue is just not merely a advertising tactic. In the meantime, the private narratives behind every assortment reveal dedication to the rising design neighborhood in Copenhagen. The town’s established manufacturers—reminiscent of Cecilie Bahnsen, Saks Potts, and naturally the #GanniGirls—could have paved the way in which for Copenhagen-based designers, however a brand new cohort of expertise units forth a contemporary perspective on Scandi-girl model every season.
Though this 12 months’s rising designers run the gamut by way of aesthetics, their shared sustainability ethos, appreciation for wearable clothes, and strategy to storytelling make their distinct collections really feel cohesive. Among the many designers that introduced their spring 2024 exhibits this season, listed below are those to look at, and store, now.
After fine-tuning his abilities at Dior, Balenciaga, and Alexander McQueen, designer Mark Kenly Domino Tan got down to create his eponymous model with an emphasis on tailoring and textiles in 2014. Within the final 12 months, the Danish design home underwent a change as Tan stepped away from his namesake model and designer Caroline Engelgaar, who beforehand labored with Tan, took over. Whereas the model has maintained its give attention to perfected tailoring and chic silhouettes, this 12 months’s present was a departure: mid-length clothes with asymmetrical hemlines, peplum skirts, and floor-sweeping coats had been just some highlights from MKDT’s present final week.
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Based by design duo Charlotte Eskildsen and Sophia Roe, this Copenhagen-based model is finest identified for its monochrome assortment knitwear and well-tailored necessities—assume pleated trousers, cream-colored cardigans, and barely outsized overcoats. This 12 months, The Garment introduced their spring 2024 assortment in a sculpture room at Copenhagen’s Thorvaldsen’s Museum, the place the present opened with a white serviette high paired with a black midi skirt and closed with an all-white, one-shoulder ensemble. The gathering supplied a contemporary tackle basic spring necessities whereas remaining true to the model’s authentic dedication to designing a responsibly-made, paired-back choice of approachable on a regular basis put on.
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The Garment
Toulouse off-shoulder gown
Established in 2018 by designer Birgitte Herskind, this Danish model places a twist on as we speak’s development of quiet luxurious with versatile leather-based, silk, and cotton wardrobe staples. Utilizing natural and responsibly sourced supplies that meet globally acknowledged sustainability certifications, Birgitte and her daughter, Andrea, create wardrobe necessities that really feel equally timeless and modern. This season, the model expanded its fashionable strategy to on a regular basis requirements with a present at Copenhagen’s Royal Faculty of Artwork, the place they introduced tailor-made suiting, knitted separates, and variations of on a regular basis trench coats.
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Danish sisters Julie and Marie Skall grew up in Northern Jutland, the place their time spent exterior impressed the duo to combine their appreciation for nature into their very own clothes line. With a give attention to responsibly sourced supplies reminiscent of Danish wool, linen, natural cotton, and recycled cashmere, Skall Studio produces nearly all of their assortment regionally in Denmark, thus preserving native craftsmanship and sustaining a low-impact provide chain. The model is thought for his or her beloved cotton blouses, popover clothes, and GOTS-certified denim. This season, Skall Studio introduced their newest assortment at Copenhagen’s Backyard of the Royal Library, the place matching units appeared to be an underlying theme of the gathering: Knitwear, denim, cotton shirts, skirts, and pants, made for a wise system of interchangeable wardrobe staples.
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Based in 2019, this conceptual knitwear model is based by Amalie Roge Hove, who beforehand designed for beloved Copenhagen-based design home Cecile Bahnsen. In her collections, Hove attracts upon Denmark’s historical past as a worldwide design chief by marrying an appreciation for construction and silhouette along with her experience in knit materials. Her knitting course of entails a “no waste” manufacturing mannequin, which implies every assortment is designed as near demand as doable and the supplies are resourced accordingly. This season, Hove gave a nod to her Danish roots by introducing a collaboration with Danish design model Georg Jenson, integrating Jenson’s signature silver into her ready-to-wear assortment and a brand new jewellery partnership.
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A Ukrainian model identified for its use of plant-based supplies, TG Botanical was based by designer Tegyana Chumak. Whereas the model was simply launched in 2020 and introduced its first assortment final season, it’s now integral to the Copenhagen Trend Week scene. The designer integrates eco-friendly supplies, natural dyeing methods, and her household’s historical past in farming to supply nature-based materials from nettle, flax, and hemp. The model’s spring 2024 present befell alongside Copenhagen’s canal, the place fashions wore a set of muted inexperienced, mustard yellow, and electrical blue knitwear. The colours had been created from pure components reminiscent of tansy flowers, acorns, onion husks, and occasional beans, and the silhouettes mirrored the designer’s appreciation for fitted, comfy skirts, units, and clothes.
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Behind this London-based model is a design staff of two: former Central Saint Martins design friends Paolina Russo and Lucile Guilmard. After launching in 2021, the pair mixed their appreciation for pure dyes, folkloric custom, and futuristic innovation to create a set of Y2K-inspired clothes. Already beloved by SSENSE customers, Paolina Russo gained the Zalando Visionary Award and was a finalist for the LVMH Prize in 2023. This season, the staff introduced their assortment to Copenhagen to share their futuristic knits and new denim assortment with a brand new viewers.
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Danish designer Elisabet Stamm launched her model in 2022, and rapidly gained the Zalando Sustainability Award after debuting her fall 2023 assortment at CPHFW. Impressed by fashionable streetwear, Stamm’s assortment of jersey clothes, puffer jackets, nylon pants, and T-shirts consists of cautious shade mixtures and model messaging. With an appreciation for self-expression and empowerment, the model units forth gender-fluid items that really feel equally informal and celebratory. For her spring 2024 present, the designer introduced a set of avenue put on adopted by a efficiency from Swedish rapper Silvana Imam, who wore one of many model’s beloved printed puffer jackets and matching pants.
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Copenhagen-based designer Marie Mark based Kernemilk in 2019 out of her condo in Nørrebro. Dedicated to the concept a vogue model might be sustainably made with out forgoing magnificence and aesthetics, Mark chooses supplies which are preloved. Kernemilk makes use of each scrap of leftover material from her personal designs to create a set of equipment and attire known as “SCRAPS.” Moreover, the model locations an emphasis on encouraging optimistic self-image by creating comfy clothes everybody can put on. Of their spring 2024 present, Kernemilk introduced a sequence of their beloved cutout tank tops and clothes along with a brand new set of modernized sportswear.
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This Copenhagen-based designer explores the connection between textiles and kind by his private expertise with vogue. Nicklas, the founder, taught himself weaving and designs his personal textiles, that are sewn into clothes that really feel celebratory, romantic, and classic. After crafting swatches of material himself, he experiments with kind to see what sort of form they’ll maintain. Skovgaard prioritizes waste minimization by solely creating the precise quantity of material wanted for the material and creates every bit as a one-of-a-kind creation regionally in Copenhagen. This season, Skovgaard drew inspiration from his mom, from whom he discovered concerning the occasion of getting dressed. Whereas designing his spring assortment of clothes, the designer saved a photograph of his mom up on the wall of his studio.
