Within the baking warmth of Haderlump designer Johann Ehrhardt’s present venue, a non air-conditioned former classic furnishings warehouse within the Alt-Treptow neighborhood, it appeared the cuboid edifice that took heart stage on his runway, coated because it was in 1000’s of ex libris paper ebook plates, would possibly burst into flames any minute, it was so sizzling. And the way’s that for an indictment on our world burning proper now in oh so some ways? Not that the warmth was in any means Ehrhardt’s fault: the present Berlin heatwave has come out of nowhere, and he and his staff and fashions had been working in a backstage area solely marginally (and I do imply marginally) cooler. And it wasn’t ebook burning that was on his thoughts, however a much more romantic and lyrical narrative.
Ehrhardt has been taking tango and salsa classes at a Berlin bar known as Bepop (there’s something fairly endearing about this cool black-clad towering dude studying to journey the sunshine improbable) and he’s befriended an older couple who additionally go to Bebop, who gifted him with an aviator-themed ex libris plate relationship from 1913, simply as he was engaged on a set to be proven at Berlin’s historic Tegel airport. He visited the couple at their dwelling for dinner, and found they’d an unlimited assortment of books with an equally huge—80,000, reckons Ehrhardt—assortment of vintage ebook plates. “I keep in mind considering, nobody is aware of about these anymore,” he mentioned. “My technology would by no means suppose to place one in a ebook.” He pored over them for hours, they usually led him to his spring 2026 assortment.
These ebook plates would usually characteristic illustrations of legendary figures, and mythic characters, typically in equally memorable clothes, swaggering historic tailor-made garb, say, or historic draped robes. The previous Ehrhardt has right down to a tee, as this assortment ably demonstrated, whatever the gender that was carrying it on the runway. There have been loads of jackets in cotton drill or glazed leather-based minimize with edge and angle, notably these which had been on the roomy aspect, their capacious sleeves that includes bias seams which injected motion into them. Ehrhardt additionally is aware of his means round a floorsweeping, ever so barely f—ked up greatcoat (current and proper right here, in hammered and embroidered khaki-ish brown wool) in addition to an enormous, dangerous black blouson jacket, his that includes a curving chest panel, and worn with a pleated skirt layered over tacking-stitched trousers, whereas one other in olive sported a monk-like hood.
But these plates additionally took him someplace new: the drawn by hand robes and togas impressed him to attempt draping for the primary time, with he and his staff energized by the thought of taking this most noble and stylish of strategies, and allying it to the label’s resolutely city look. It turned up as a strictly waisted black prime with a billowing, somewhat Edwardian skirt, say, or a diaphanous robe that moved like a cloud. “It was plenty of late nights to get it proper,” Ehrhardt mentioned, “however I’m pleased we did it.” And the way does he suppose he made the high-quality artwork of draping true to Haderlump? “We wished ours to really feel comfy,” Ehrhardt replied, “and in addition with this sense of security, and cocooning. But it’s for Haderlump,” he continued, smiling, “so it additionally wanted to have some toughness.”
